How to Construct a Placket in a Double Layer Skirt

One of the most popular questions in our Facebook Sewing Group (remember to join if you haven't already!) is, "how do I sew a placket in a double layer skirt?". Instructions are included in our Peony Patterns Honeysuckle Dress tutorial, and today we're sharing them on our blog! 

For this tutorial, you will need:

• 1 placket piece, 8" x 2 1/2" (20.3cm x 6.4cm)
• 2 finished skirts (see pattern of your choice for dimensions)

Step 1:

Place the top skirt over the bottom skirt, right sides out. The right side of the bottom skirt will be facing the wrong side of the top skirt. Align the top raw edges and side seams. Pin around the top of both skirts to hold them in place.

Step 2:

Find the centre back of both skirts by folding them half width-wise and pressing a crease.

Step 3:

Draw a line down the centre back crease of the top skirt approximately 3” (7.5cm) long. At the bottom of the line in the centre, draw two diagonal lines at a 45 degree angle. The lines should be 1/4” (6mm) long.

Step 4:

Using a 1/4” (6mm) seam allowance, sew a basting stitch through both skirts around the lines drawn. This will hold the skirts together nicely whilst the placket is being constructed.

Step 5:

Carefully cut through both skirts, down the straight centre line and each diagonal line. When the fabric is gently opened, it will look as pictured.

Step 6:

Locate the placket piece. Align the right side of the placket piece to the wrong side of the bottom skirt, at the opening just created. The diagonal slits will allow the skirts to open out in a straight line. Pin both skirt layers to the placket piece. Sew to attach using a 1/4” (6mm) seam allowance. Sew slowly and carefully to avoid getting pinches in the fabric. Tip: Use the 1/4” (6mm) box of basting stitches sewn previously as a guide.

Step 7:

Fold the placket up and press the seam allowance towards the placket.

Step 8:

Fold the top of the placket 3/4” (1.9cm) wrong sides together. Press.

Step 9:

Fold it a further 3/4” (1.9cm) wrong sides together. The folded edge of the placket will now conceal the seam. Pin. Edgestitch in place.

Step 10:

Trim the excess from each end of the placket.

Step 11:

Fold the left side of placket towards the back of the skirt, wrong sides together. Baste the placket to the skirts using a 1/4” (6mm) seam allowance.

Step 12:

Turn the skirt inside out and lay both sides of the placket right sides together.

Tip: It may be useful to pin/clip the top of the placket together to keep it in place.

Step 13:

Starting at the left hand bottom corner of the placket (where the topstitching is), sew a 45 degree diagonal line upwards through both layers of the placket, backstitching at both ends. Be careful not to catch the skirt in the stitching whilst doing so. This will assist with the placket sitting nicely once it is attached to the skirt.

Finish: Gather and attach the skirt, per instructions in pattern tutorial. 

Happy Sewing! Questions, comments or want to show off your makes? Join our Facebook Group to share!