How to Determine the Stretch and Recovery of your Knit

Hi Everyone, this is Angie from Peony Patterns (you can find me on Instagram at @pocketful_of_rainbows88). Today, we're here to show you how to determine the stretch and recovery of your knit. 

In order to determine if the fabric is suitable for the pattern, the fabric recommendations with the necessary stretch and recovery can be found under the Section titled "Pattern Information". An extract of the pattern information and the fabric recommendations is attached below.

These stretch percentages and recovery are particularly important to ensure that the neckline sits beautifully and circle skirts where relevant, hangs evenly. It is highly recommended to stretch test the fabric before cutting the pattern to ensure that the knit being used is just right for this project.

Recommended Materials:

• Knit Fabric (cut a piece using the 'Stretch Test Fabric Sample guide' on the pattern).
  Alternatively, fold the knit fabric along the horizontal grain.  
• Print the Stretch Test Percentage Guide 
• 2 Pins 

How to Determine the Stretch

(1) Using the Stretch Test Fabric Sample Piece:

Fold the piece of fabric in half along the horizontal grain.

Align the left side of the fabric with the start point of the guide and stretch the right side as far as possible along this guide to check the stretch factor. It should recover back to its original size.

(2) Using the Knit Fabric:

• Fold the piece of fabric in half along the horizontal grain. 
  
  
• Place 2 pins at the top of the fold to mark the start point of the Stretch Test Percentage Guide and the end point of the guide. 
  
• Align the left pin with the start point of the guide and stretch the pin on the right side as far as possible along this guide to the right (holding the left pin in place).
  
• To determine the recovery, release the right pin and determine where it returns on the guide. If right pin returns to end point of the guide, the fabric has 100% recovery. 
  
  

Below are some example of knits that were tested and a sample of a vertical stretch test:

RIB KNIT:

COTTON JERSEY:

FRENCH TERRY:

DBP:

SCUBA:

COTTON LYCRA / 4 WAY STRETCH:

(a) Horizontal Stretch Test

(b) Vertical Stretch Test

Now that you've determined the stretch percentage and recovery of your knit fabric, it's time to start sewing! You can find all our knit patterns here. 

Happy sewing! 

𝓐𝓷𝓰𝓲𝓮